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T’s Women’s Fashion Issue: From Many, One

Lillie Garza by Lillie Garza
August 22, 2022
in Women Fashion
0

Of the many delights working at a mag gives, one can collaborate with those who think differently than you do. The quality magazines I’ve worked at are the archetypal American high school remade: You have the newspaper and speech and debate group youngsters (now the text editors); the drama-membership kids (now the fashion branch); the skateboarders (now the artwork directors); and the movie society youngsters (now the image editors). The result, while it works, is basically pleased, if from time to time contentious, collective, a group of humans all seeking to create something the usage of their unique competencies and sorts of intelligence. Magazine staffs adhere to a hierarchy. However, an excessive amount of systemization frustrates the inherently communal nature of the enterprise — it’s far “e Pluribus Unum” at its finest, creative humans attempting to solve a riddle together.

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T’s Women’s Fashion Issue: From Many, One 1

This is a romantic manner to bear in mind your industry of the path. Still, when you work in an innovative or semi-innovative area, you’re continually looking to associated agencies to find both kinship or distinction: How do they conceive of no longer most effective what they do, but how and where they work? Last year, I went with some of my colleagues to the Hermès headquarters on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris for tea. The tea (and housemade madeleines) were great, and we needed to screen one another to make sure we didn’t slip the sugar cubes, glittery little sculptures in the shape of the Hermès “H,” into our coat wallet as we left. But what most inspired me were the curious anachronisms of the region.

Just a few steps from the private eating room, with its Hermès china and homemade jams and butter-candy air, turned into one of the company’s glass-doored leather studios, where artisans have been completing hand-stitched leather-based saddles. Lining the partitions had been bookcases stacked with ledgers detailing the workshop’s century of orders, the handwriting chronicling the clients’ names, addresses, and desires to develop fainter and extra spidery as you paged ever backward. This changed into the form of the atelier that could easily have been moved to the suburbs, to some a ways-flung satellite vicinity, and but here it turned into inside the middle of Paris, occupying a large slice of wildly high priced real property inside the six-tale building it shared with the executives’ workplaces and, downstairs, the boutique itself.

Like different massive-money innovative industries (movie, theater, art), fashion has continuously loved a character, a quirky, colorful, irrepressible artistic director whose genius is matched by his or her non-public magnetism. But these days, I’d love the one’s people a little less. It’s hard to make a dominant character subsume themselves to the logo they’ve been hired to serve. Which is another motive Hermès’s ethos — a group of different specialists, each of whom runs a one-of-a-kind atelier, but none of those private profiles are allowed to eclipse the agency’s — feels right now old fashioned and modern? This, as a lot as the brand’s focus on foregrounding artisanship and artisans, remembers the now almost-extinct European guild device.

As Nancy Hass writes in her tale about Hermès, “With no ‘Monsieur’ or ‘Madame,’ the modern-day business enterprise hews as an alternative to the contours of the guilds: There are separate ateliers (and corresponding heads) for girls’ equipped-to-wear, fragrance, shoes, and jewelry, guys put on, silk and domestic furniture. In France, where the couture lifestyle has helped maintain handwork vital (perhaps best Japan has guarded it as doggedly), this changed into as soon as called the corps de métier, a web of semiautonomous, fantastically specialized studios where artisans, skilled from the apprenticeship, produced a single class of item.”

But while I can without difficulty admit I’m fascinated by the organization’s defiance of the meant guidelines of modern luxury, it also offers desire to the rest of people. It’s no secret to everyone in our enterprise or follows it even casually that print publishing is an infinitely extra tricky, much less predictable venture than it changed into a decade ago. And but I do it — we do it — due to the fact the pleasure of making something, of pairing pix with text, of arguing over which weight of font will examine better at the published page, of retaining the actual factor to your arms, feeling its floppy, pleasurable weight, nevertheless fulfills some elemental want that human beings have to bring together something with our fingers and eyes. Call it old style. But we made it — and it’s ours.

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